This glittering ensemble—by Senegal’s “Queen of Couture,” fashion designer Oumou Sy—embodies the concept and practice of sañse, and, through color and imagery, combines the historical memory of two famous Senegalese signares—Penda Mbaye and Anne Pépin.
Sy incorporates red—Mbaye’s favorite color—to recall the celebrated wife of Louis Faidherbe, French colonial governor of Saint-Louis. Mbaye is credited with creating Senegal’s national dish, thiéboudienne (boldly flavored fish and rice in tomato sauce). Pépin, known for her residence on Gorée Island off the coast of Dakar and for her relationship with French governor Stanislas de Boufflers, hails from eastern Senegal, site of the majority of Senegal’s gold mines. Pépin is represented by the golden embroidery in the shape of bay leaves.
Among her many international accolades, Sy is one of the first recipients of the Prince Claus Award. Her fashions are sold worldwide and have been featured in significant West African films and music videos.